Once the cams have been secured, use lash gauges to confirm the new valve clearances match the clearances that were calculated. Any deviations that are found should be carefully scrutinized because they may be indicative of calculation errors or shims that are not seated correctly. If there is a hint of a problem at this point, it is imperative that it is thoroughly understood and corrected before proceeding.
Assuming everything checks out, the cam chain can be tensioned. Follow the procedure outlined in your service manual to do so. Once the tension has been set, rotate the engine through at least four complete revolutions.
Doing so will help the automatic chain tensioners to set the correct initial tension and confirm that the engine has been timed correctly. Position the piston at TDC on the compression stroke and check that all timing features on the crank and cams remain in their specified positions. Complete the job by carefully reinstalling the cylinder head cover, making sure to torque those bolts in a star sequence to recommended specs.
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Author: Paul Olesen. With years of experience in four-stroke engines of all types, JE is no stranger to the valve adjustments and maintenance. Any time you have the top end apart to replace the piston, you should check your valve clearance and adjust as necessary.
A critical tool to measuring valve clearance is a set of feeler gauges. Chances are you're not working on a new bike, so be sure the area around the cam cover is clean to avoid unwanted debris. If you're working on an engine still in the bike, you'll need to remove your seat and tank, along with any other components hindering your access to the cam cover. Whether the head is still on the engine or you're working on it separately, be sure the engine is either at TDC or the cam lobes are resting somewhere on their base circle and not applying pressure to the buckets like they would when opening valves.
Measure valve clearance by inserting your lash gauge s between the cam lobe and lifter bucket. Begin by the using the gauge equal to the median recommended valve clearance measurement in your manual. You may have to move up or down a couple sizes until you find the size that slides between the cam lobe and bucket with a slight drag.
Record this measurement for each valve. Be sure to slacken the cam chain before attempting removal. Remove the camshaft s and secure the cam chain so it doesn't fall in the cases. Use a pen magnet or lapping tool to remove the buckets. Be careful of shims that may stick on the underside of buckets.
Drawing a simple diagram can help you keep track of what buckets and shims came from where. Once everything is removed, confirm your shim measurements. Shim assortment kits are available from various aftermarket suppliers, just be sure you know what shim diameter your machine takes before ordering.
This kit was sourced from ProX Racing Parts. Using engine oil and assembly lube when reassembling your shims, buckets, and cams helps prevent premature wear and also helps your shims stay in place while re-inserting buckets. Make sure your timing marks on your crankshaft are lined up, then reinstall your cam s. It's important to make sure the timing marks on the crankshaft and cam s remain lined up simultaneously when reinstalling the cam chain.
This will work on all piston engines. For engines with rocker arms and screw type adjusters, take a feeler gauge of the right size and place it between the end tip of the valve and the screw adjuster. If it is out of specification use a wrench or Valve Adjusting Tool to loosen the screw and change it.
Sometimes you can use a regular wrench and screw driver to adjust things and sometimes you must have the special tool. When you push the feeler gauge between the valve tip and the adjuster screw there should be a little bit of resistance. One way of doing it is the go-no-go way. On most engines the intake clearances will be tighter then the exhaust clearances Sometimes they are the same.
I have never seen an engine where the exhaust is tighter then the intake. He says "T Triumphs are the exception. Triumph did it that way to slightly retard intake cam timing, and kill some of the bottom end power, They were afraid the motor would chew up main bearings if the cam timing were advanced. Mark you are right. My only excuse is that I have never had a T come into the shop.
The information is right there in the shop manual, next line down. Like I always say "Check your shop manual. I've found most engines prefer their valves a bit loose but only one or two thou I like to hear just a hint of valve noise. Complete silence bothers me. I keep seeing valves roasting.
If you have one rocker arm, operating two valves, with two screw adjusters, you will get a more accurate adjustment if you use two feeler gauges. Loosen both screw adjusters, put the right sized feeler gauges in each tappet and then adjust both at the same time. When both feeler gauges feel like they have the same resistance, tighten the lock nuts, pull them out and you are done.
Remember to always double check your work. The clearance can change when you tighten the lock nut. Sometimes you have to set the tappet loose and when you tighten the lock nut it will pull the tappet into the right clearance. However, when it comes time to change things it can get expensive. Each shim is a certain thickness. If you need more valve clearance, you need to put in a thinner shim. So if you need.
That shim is thinner so that would add. Got that? No huh? Well, just remember each shim size goes up or down. A shim numbered is. Let's see WOW, that adds up fast. AND you are replacing good parts. The shims rarely wear out. Good news is you can swap shims between valves.
Tight one for a loose one, loose one for a tight one, and save some money. Get the valve cover off. On most shim engines that entails bolts, a real fragile gasket that is easy to break and a big H shaped cover. Some of the engines will have a thick rubber gasket that can be a bit of a pill to get back on. On both just take your time and gently work them off and back on. If you tear or rip either type of gasket you will need to buy a new one and they can be rather expensive.
Now you will find that things look a bit different from a rocker engine Well, except of course, when there are. They call them cam followers. More about that later. You will notice the cam and the shim are real close together. To get that shim out first put that cylinder at Top-Dead-Center of the compression stroke.
Then rotate the shim bucket till the notch on it is out. Then rotate the engine so the cam lobe pushes the shim and shim bucket down. Now you use a special tool to hold the edge of the shim bucket down and rotate the cam lobe out of the way. You may have to do this several times to get it right. Reach in the notch with a small screw driver and pop the shim up. Remove it with tweezers. Look on the down side of the shim and it will give you it's size.
If you can't make out the numbers, measure it with dial calipers. Sounds so easy doesn't it? Now when you put in the special too be very careful and don't force anything. Go slow. It all should feel very smooth. Once you have it sussed, write the measurement on your piece of paper, making sure it corresponds to the correct valve. Try a few combinations of blades when checking the valves; for instance — if you think you need 0. The other cylinder should be at TDC and you can now measure the remaining valve clearances.
Chances are though, at least one gap will be tight — probably on the exhaust — so mark any that are out clearly on your piece of paper…. Holes in the camshafts can be used to tie the chain in place but you have to be VERY careful not to damage it. The camshafts on this bike should be removed with the T 1. Make sure you rotate the camshafts before removing the holder, and ensure you align the T 1.
First unscrew the central bolt in the tensioner almost all the way out to relieve the pressure, then you can remove the tensioner body itself. Bad times. You can lift the cam chain off the cams then remove them, but you must use something to avoid dropping the chain down into the engine; I used a piece of pipe. You only need to remove the shims from the valves that have incorrect clearances. I found it easiest to get them out using a magnet, which lifted the bucket and the shim with it.
Measure each shim one by one and write the size next to the gap you measured. Using the chart in the Haynes manual, you can then use the gap measurement and the present shim to find the size of shim you need. It sounds complicated, but once you have the numbers it makes sense — For instance, a gap of 0. Given that the present shim is 2. I was able to swap some shims around from incorrect clearances to reduce the number required. Yes, this looks complicated, but all that matters is that when you do the work, you know which numbers are which.
I found that some of the existing shims that were in incorrect gaps were the sizes I needed for other valves, which saved some money — I only needed four new shims instead of If you place your order in time with Wemoto, you could get them the next day, but give yourself time to get the parts in and reassemble the bike, and keep the open engine covered up. Once you have the new shims, lubricate them with fresh engine oil and pop them into the tops of the valves, then slide the oiled buckets back over.
You need to fit the chain to the exhaust cam first, pulling it taught at the front of the engine with the T 1.
On this bike, there needs to be 30 chain links between those two lines on the gears, to ensure the chain is correctly fitted. Wipe some fresh engine oil on the bearing surfaces, check the O-rings are in good condition and correctly aligned, then locate the camshaft.
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